After taken about 50 low speed shots at couple of small rivers in Samigaluh village, Kulonprogo area. I’ve learned some of personal tips how to perform low speed to create “silky water” effect at the rocky river.
- Setting camera: I would to set my camera as “Shutter Priority” which may apply for 1 – 4 sec exposure which is the best speed could create nice & beatiful “silky water” effect. You may also set your camera in “Manual” mode then set ISO sensivity setting to “ON”. Shot with range of speed 1 – 4 sec and aperture between f/5.6 – f/16. Your ISO set will automatic set to appropriate your current lighting.
- Lens & Filter: I am going to use wild angle lens or mid of wide angle range to normal focal length. Attached CPL, GND, ND8 filters on them.
- Tripod: Use struddy tripod with flexible ball head. It may useful if you have water level on it.
- Spot Location: Try to get the location of rivers and rocky staircase steps some of the “stack”, due to the effect of “silky water” will appear in the stream of water on rocky stripes and steps.
- Be Careful: Rocky river is usually a lot of moss and slippery, besides some unexpected depth of the river bed. So make sure your camera strap looped perfectly on your neck and watch your step when entering the river.
- Good preparation: Before the shoot, look from some angles the river and do not put your camera on a tripod first. Once you ascertain the location of the shot, put the tripod first until completely solid, then put your camera on a tripod and try to take a shot from a low angle but can show all the water that falls.
Nikon D3 & Nikon D800
Samigaluh Village, Kulonprogo
|AFS 24-70mm f/2.8G ED. 20s, f/16, ISO 100, EV +1 | From My Nikon D800
A few days ago, I brought two flagship of Nikon lenses for landscape photo session at the beach Baron, they were massive AFS 24-70mm f/2.8G ED and AFS 14-24mm f/2.8G ED. Inadvertently I use both lenses because I had dropped and broke filters CND (Circular Natural Density) for 24-70mm lens.
I have included examples of some of the photos I shot with both lenses, including EXIF data in short; Please note that all photo shots generated from single shot mode so it is not a “bracketing” or with the built-in HDR in camera, with the purpose of your can see the difference. All of these images, I have also edit the ACR ver 6.7 and Adobe Photoshop CS5.
Because I am shooting with 24-70mm f/2.8G AFS by using the filters CPL and GND, then editing in post processing prone and not very time consuming. Instead the photographs that I made with AFS 14-24mm f/2.8G without the use of filters, the editing process is much more complicated and longer, due to the large difference between the bright lighting, shadows and darkness. To facilitate this, I decided I generated a lot of shots with mode “bracketing”, then process it with HDR software.
|AFS 24-70mm f/2.8G ED. 2s, f/16, ISO 100, EV 0 | From My Nikon D800
The conclusion I draw from these two lenses, if designated landscape photographs are as follows:
AFS 24-70mm f/2.8G ED
- Because this lens has a filter thread (diameter 77mm), then we can install these filters for landscape photos, such as GND, CPL, ND8, etc.
- Very useful for landscape with objects that are not too close, not too wide and not too low of angle.
- The results of sharp images, smooth as well.
- These lenses can also be used as a portrait lens photos with amazing results, so you have a lens with multi function.
- Hood provided by Nikon causing difficulty in installing or removing the filter and also hard to see when we are setting up filters.
- Landscape background and foreground might be less dramatic.
- Coverage zoom lens is too far for a landscape lens.
|AFS 14-24mm f/2.8G ED. 3s, f/16, ISO 100 EV +2 | From My Nikon D800
AFS 14-24mm f/2.8G ED
- The results of its sharp images and color saturation were charming, although not using CPL filter.
- Landscape images produced from this ultra wide angle lens is outstanding and dramatic, so this is a special lens to photograph landscapes, architecture or indoor photos that are more colossal stadium.
- Good shot from the point high, medium or low will produce images that are captivating.
- You can not install the “normal” filter on this lens, there are several companies making special filters to this lens, such as Lee and Lucroit. But they put a high price for a special holder for this lens filter.
- This lens is for me still heavy.
- Lens cap provided by Nikon is very easy to loose and fall with no safety rope or string, so much complained of by most users.
|AFS 14-24mm f/2.8G ED. 15s, f/8, ISO 400 EV +1 |From My Nikon D800
My final conclusion and my advice is:
- Both lenses are very great and amazing for landscape photography, as long as we are aware of and know how to use it and when to use each of these lenses.
- If you are using AFS 14-24mm lens f/2.8 for outdoor landscape purposes, try to get a filter from Lee or Lucroit. If not, shoot using the mode “bracketing” or HDR built-in camera.
Happy shooting & Cheers,
Blok Pathuk, Ngampilan, Yogyakarta
After a week waiting for the right time and the good weather, I finally get a chance to shoot the landscape in the southern coastal city of Yogyakarta, that is Baron Beach and surrounding areas. I was used a Nikon D800 digital SLR camera with two lenses 24-70mm f/2.8G AFS and AFS ED 14-24mm f/2.8G ED. I realize it is difficult for me to take a sunset or sunrise landscape with 14-24mm lens since no filters, so that the original lens 14-24mm lens as a backup only.
The journey begins from the city of Yogyakarta to the south coast, Drive for about two and a half hours. Arriving at the beach location, then ask the local officers to locate a rocky beach, where the exact location is Kukup beach. I was prepared the Nikon D800, 24-70mm lens that is mounted and equipped with a CPL filter, GND and CND, I had also included a tripod.
After shoot about a hundred frames, I accidentally dropped my GND filter and found its cracked …. aaargh …! Though the sun was about to set, and without wasting my time, then I replaced the 24-70mm lens with 14-24mm lens. Recognizing the difficulty of shooting landscapes at sunset, I figured why not shoot with “bracketing” mode. I shot back some spots with 24-70mm lens before with mode “bracketing” setting and set it to 3 shots and EV 1. Actually, I have not experienced to take a picture “bracketing” mode, even make HDR photos.
Some of the steps in processing HDR photos that I do normally are:
- File: all the photos I shot in RAW format, the NEF (Nikon Electronic File). Resulting from the Aperture Priority mode, so that each picture will have different speeds and the same of f number. So each time you plan to make HDR photos, make sure your camera is mounted on a tripod and do not move at all for shooting a series of images “bracketing”.
- With Adobe Bridge, select the three candidates for HDR photoand click the menu > Tools > Photoshop> Merge to HDR Pro, then you will be waiting for the computer, will probably wait several minutes if your computer is not strong enough and quick in handling RAW files are huge. I waited about a minute to three RAW files before going into the menu HDR and I use Apple Macbook PRO 15 “, Intel Core i5 2.53GHz, 8GB DDR3 RAM.
- Create HDR – HDR Pro module for Adobe Photoshop will open and you will shown some HDR menu should be set. There is no standard setting in HDR setting that can be followed. Each photo has a different setting and adjust the settings are depend on your taste. So try each setting and understand the purpose of each of its setting. Once finished you can press > ENTER for processing in Adobe Photoshop CS5 software. Wait a moment, Adobe Photoshop will create a dummy HDR file with the name “untitled HDR.psd” which you can then save it in the other photo formats, such as JPG, GIF or TIFF. Once open, try the file is saved in *. TIFF in a particular folder.
- Basic Editing, actually, in this stage, you process the images like a normal picture, as if eliminating any dirt spots, straighten horizons, adjust levels, curve, contrast, and etc. Well, it’s done making process HDR photos.
I noted that not all photos will be successful and good produced by the method of HDR. All depends on the condition of the object image and the available light. HDR photo should apply for:
- The situation was much different lighting between dark and light.
- Object to be static, such as the landscape, still life or other static photography.
- Use super wide angle lens for landscape to get more dramatic results.
- You do not need to install the filter GND for “bracketing” HDR photos.
Good luck and happy shooting.
“I am the BIG PICTURE”
February 2013, most of the days, the raining is still coming in Yogyakarta and make me course being difficult to perform photography sessions with my the Nikon D800 and Nikon D3. Even so, I tried to do Infrared photography session in the southern of Yogyakarta, that Eastern area of Bantul.
I drive down to Kraton Yogyakarta, keep heading south to Jalan Parangtritis – finally, I decided to go to the west where karst hills viewed that are characteristic of the “Gunung Kidul” area. In some spots seem to rice field with small shacks where brick manufacturing building materials, makes me interested to shoot them. the picture format is JPG files selection cause the original file will make green (cool colors) will be replaced by the color blue, and sky blue will be replaced by red. This color tone is a characteristic of Goldie infrared photo.
After exploring a few spots and took some shots, then I returned home in the evening. Download all the photo files from the camera to the Macbook Pro and take rest at night. The next day, I tried to process some file with my standard infrared process.
- At first, I corrected the original photos with Adobe Camera Raw ver 6.7. This step is aimed at correcting basic of photography such as: exposure, brightness, curve, level, crop, spot removal, etc.
- The next stage is to open a file that has been corrected by Adobe Camera Raw before with Adobe Photoshop CS5. File photo will process with Infra Red Standard Editing, such as Color Swap Red & Blue channel, Hue & Saturation Adjusting, smoothly color balance.
- Then final step, save them in a Photoshop file (*. PSD). The last step is to change the file format *. JPG for printing big size and/or small *. JPG format for sharing your website or social networking.
Please noted, all the infrared photos in this page are shot with Nikon D80 DSLR camera that has been converted into Goldie Infrared cameras & lenses Nikkor AFS 18-135mm, f/3.5-5.6G DX. Post processing performed by Apple Macbook Pro 15 “, Intel Core i5 processor (2.53GHz), 8GB DDR3 RAM.
Sad Agus InfraRed©
Nikon D80, Goldie Infrared Converted
Yogyakarta, February 2013.
Just got back home two day ago after my job in offshore Malaysia, afterward I got a chance to try my two Nikon DSLR, they are Nikon D800 and Nikon D3. Actually I would to shoot for the landscape, but the weather is not friendly in January and February. In Indonesia, Jawa Island, the rain is coming almost everyday both morning and evening. So the macro photos is only a chance and maybe try to shot for human interest and night photography.
In rainy season, quite a lot of dragonfly that lands on a tree branch. Most of them are not quick to fly even though we approach it. So the object of this animal, it is good as the object to learning macro photography. The dragonfly photos below are shoot by Nikon D800 and Nikon D3, all photos shot with AF Nikkor lenses the 60mm f/2.8D micro, hopefully you all can see the difference as well as a lesson for me. I’ve also included its EXIF data.
Enjoy the pictures.
|Nikon D3, 1/200s, f/9, ISO 400, Exp +2/3 | From Edited
|Nikon D3, 1/100s, f/5.6, ISO 640, Exp +1/3 | From Edited
Sad Agus (Location: Ngampilan, Yogyakarta, Indonesia)
“I am the BIG PICTURE”